Scotland Recommendation: The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo Festival

I know what it sounds like. It sounds like you’re going to go to a big convention hall and check out tattoos all afternoon. But remember, this is Scotland, and they roll a bit differently there. The “tattoo” you’re thinking about comes from the Samoan word ta-tau. The “tattoo” they’re thinking about comes from the Dutch word taptoel. It’s a coinkydink that they’re the same word now.

So in this case, the Tattoo Festival means a huge gathering of military bands from across the globe, with a heavy emphasis on bagpipes and drums. I’d heard from a friend that it’s really worth your while to check it out, since it happens every August in Edinburgh. They erect a stadium in front of the castle, and each evening they put on an enormous show. We bought tickets months ago, and I’m glad we did, as they are far from inexpensive, and so many people are in Edinburgh then that it’s quite possible they sell out.

We bought the cheapest ones they had, which cost about $50/seat. They’re in the corner of the stadium right by the castle, and they have the worst view in theory. In practice, the views generally didn’t matter too much, though I’m sure things would have looked even more splendid if we’d bought the $300/seat tickets that were dead center. Worth an additional $1000 for a family of four? I would say no, but I guess that’s a personal choice.

It really was stupendous. It starts out with about 250 pipers marching into the stadium out of smoke at the castle gates. Now, I’m not typically a big fan of bagpipes. I can take them in small quantities, but I generally think they sound like something that ought to be put out of its misery. However, this was an entirely different experience. For one thing, they were actually all very good. In tune, in time, and in mass quantities. Good enough that I tried to listen to bagpipe music on Apple Music later to see if they’re all that good. (They aren’t.) Seeing them all march in was a highlight of my trip. (Though mind you, it wouldn’t take much to stand out on this trip, as I said yesterday.)

From there, a bunch of other performers come on. American military bands and drill teams. Bands from India. A Scottish rave band (which was not a favorite). You name it. It all went on for about 2 hours, and finished with fireworks and every single performer out on the grounds at once.

If you’re going to be in Edinburgh in August, I will echo the recommendation that was given to me. I would consider this one a must see.